HOW DO I HANG MY STAINED GLASS?

Each piece of stained glass that is designed to hang will come with eyelet hooks built into the piece to help you securely display your item.  Most will come with some sort of chain or cord attached to these eyelet hooks as well.  If you choose to change out the hanging materials for your personal needs or if a chain was not included with your design, please ensure that the replacement can accommodate the weight of the piece.  Stained glass can be surprisingly heavy due to the types of materials used.  I highly recommend avoiding suction cups and command hooks to hang stained glass in your windows.  While they may seem secure, I ensure you that the weight of the glass, gravity, and temperature changes can quickly cause them to break loose and fail.  I prefer to use metal screw hooks or nails when hanging my pieces.  If you cannot secure them into a stud or solid window frame I would also pair these with a plaster anchor for added security.  Hollow drywall can lead to disaster and ultimately, the demise of a beautiful piece of glass.  Stained glass is fragile - Hang your piece in a low traffic area where it will not be slammed around or potentially knocked down.  Most pieces are assembled using the traditional ‘Tiffany’ method meaning they are not suitable for hanging outside or in high moisture areas like a bathroom.  Items suitable for display outdoors will be noted as such and assembled with different materials that can stand up better to outdoor exposure.  Sun catchers are not made for display in vehicles, as the glass used is not tempered and can lead to injury in the case of an accident.  Never hang stained glass at a level where children can reach it.  No one wants to end up with unnecessary breakage and the best way to avoid this is to hang pieces properly and securely, with reliable methods.  Ask for help at your local hardware store if you are unsure what materials will suit your specific need.  

HOW DO I CARE FOR STAINED GLASS?

As with most household items, stained glass requires the occasional cleaning to ensure it stays sparkling for years to come.  Stained glass contains lead.  Cleaning lead in general will not make you sick or expose you to harm, but it is important to be cognizant of the methods and materials you choose to use.  Thoroughly wash your hands before and after handling your piece.  If you have any cuts or broken skin it’s a good idea to wear medical gloves as an extreme precaution.  Never touch your face, mucous membranes, or other objects that you could come in contact with after handling stained glass.  Do not use abrasive soaps, steel wool, or tough scrubbers on solder lines, as it will remove the patina* from your piece and potentially expose you to lead dust that is harmful if inhaled.  This includes Magic Erasers, which are considered abrasive.  Most of these measures are out of an abundance of caution, but good habits to be in when handling stained glass.  

It is advised to clean your piece over a table with an old towel down to protect the surfaces below as well as the glass while it is being cleaned.  Be careful to not apply heavy pressure to your glass during this process.  Too much pressure can crack the glass or compromise the solder lines.  Glass should always be handled with extreme care, as broken glass can lead to injury.  Never submerge or run your piece under water.  Never use ammonia, vinegar, or acid based cleaners as these are all very corrosive.  For regular dry dusting make sure to use a microfiber or soft cloth to gently wipe down the piece on all sides.  This method can be used to remove finger prints and smudges that can appear on glass.  You should dust your glass on a regular basis.  If a deeper clean needs to be accomplished, it is important to be careful with what you use on your piece.  The materials and finishes in stained glass respond poorly to certain chemicals and cleaning materials.  I would recommend using a carnauba based car wax.  This will not only clean the piece, but it will provide solid protection to the solder lines.  

Over time your piece may begin to show signs of oxidization or what is sometimes referred to in the stained glass community as ‘white mold’.  Rest assured that this is not mold in the traditional sense at all, but rather a chemical reaction that can occur.  There is a number of reasons why this can happen to a piece ranging from humidity in the air, to remnants of flux* residue remaining on the solder lines causing a slow, chemical response.  Oxidation appears in spots as a thin, white crust along lead or solder lines.  If left uncleaned the oxidation will continue to spread over time and can lead to a piece looking unattractive or requiring professional intervention to restore it.  If you see white mold forming, this is a sign that your stained glass is overdue for a waxing. Regular upkeep will extend the life of your purchase for years to come.  First start by dry dusting or wiping away any light oxidation with an ammonia-free glass cleaner applied to a microfiber towel.  Fully dry your piece before moving onto the waxing process to ensure full coverage and protection.  To wax your piece, pour a small amount of car wax (Not polish - polish is abrasive!) onto a clean and dry section of your microfiber towel.  Do not dump wax directly onto the piece as this will be more difficult to buff out.  Massage the product into the glass, lead lines, and around the framing on both sides.  Lay the stained glass on your towel and allow the wax to dry into a haze on its surface.  With a fresh microfiber towel, begin to buff off the foggy wax in small, circular motions until the piece starts to shine.  You will find that the wax tends to collect into tight corners and small spaces.  Q-tips or a soft bristle toothbrush dedicated to cleaning your stained glass can come in handy here.  Any tools you used for the purpose of cleaning your glass, shouldn’t be used for anything else.  For best results, turn your towel often when buffing, so that you are always wiping away the excess, instead of reapplying it to your glass.  This will make the process go quicker and it will leave you with shiny solder lines.  Make sure to wash all towels used during the cleaning process.  

Each piece is thoroughly cleaned, polished and waxed prior to shipment to avoid the above mentioned oxidation issues, however occasional upkeep may be required to keep the luster of a piece alive.  This is all a normal part of owning stained glass and should cause no reason for alarm.  Be cautious with other cleaning methods you find on the internet, as there is a lot of bad information out there that can ultimately put an untrained person or the stained glass itself at risk. 

*Flux is a chemical used during the soldering process when stained glass is being assembled

*Patina is a chemical that changes the color of the solder lines on your stained glass 

WHAT MATERIALS ARE USED TO MAKE STAINED GLASS?

Stained glass is made from high quality sheet glass that has been pre-colored at the manufacturer, copper foil tape, lead came, lead or lead-free solder, patina, copper coated wire or strips, zinc/wood/lead framing materials, and various types of hanging components.  Combination of materials used in each artwork can change dependent of design and weight requirements. 

WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH USING LEAD? IS STAINED GLASS DANGEROUS?

Lead has been used in stained glass for a very long time.  Reason being, lead is an easily manipulated metal that is strong enough to secure glass in place.  So strong that it can be welded together to assemble an intricately designed window that can withstand the elements.  It is easily cut, joined, and repaired.  Lead is flexible and can contour very complex shapes with ease, which allows an artist to create a range of designs without compromising strength.  Lead has a low melting point which allows for soldering without bringing potential damage to the glass during assembly.  There are various styles of doing stained glass and they heavily favor lead due to its strength, flexibility, and ease of use.  Lead free options are available, but they have downfalls that outweigh the risk of a rare lead exposure.  

Lead poses a bigger risk to me as the artist than it will ever do to you as an owner.  This is because the processes used in stained glass creation can increase the presence of dust and particles as I cut, solder, and handle lead.  The lead used in stained glass is only dangerous when it is directly inhaled, ingested, or allowed to enter the body through broken skin or mucous membranes.  There is a big difference between the steps I take to create stained glass and simply being in the presence of something containing lead.  Being around lead or touching it cannot put you at risk, but how you interact with your stained glass is important.  Keep stained glass away from children and/or pets.  Hang items up high and out of reach.  Children and pets are more likely to lick or chew on stained glass which increases the risk of lead particle ingestion.  Stained glass is not a toy.  Do not allow children to handle stained glass unless closely supervised and require that they wash their hands before doing anything else.  Do not handle stained glass and then touch your mucous membranes or allow children to do so.  Handling lead then touching your eyes, nose, or mouth can expose you if particles are present.  Lead in its solid form is less likely to find a way to enter the body, which is why when cleaning it is advised to avoid methods that can create dust or particles that can’t be controlled if airborne.  Lead dust can be created if a piece is scrubbed with score pads or steel wool.  Always be conscious of what you’re touching and immediately wash your hands after handling your glass just to be safe. Lead molecules are too big to pass through the skin barrier without assistance. You can be exposed if you eat it, get it in a cut or mucous membrane, or breathe it in.  

I know this all sounds kind of scary, but don’t be afraid to own stained glass.  Lead poisoning is rare.  The most common form of lead poising comes from lead dust and chips in old paint, typically found in homes built prior to 1978.  To put your risk in perspective: soil, mini blinds, computers, circuit boards, paint on antiques, imported toys, some batteries, holiday lights strands for indoor and outdoor use, hoses, anything with pvc coating, fishing weights, ceramics, and various other everyday household items can contain lead and often do.  Even the outdoor and indoor air you breathe in places outside your home can contain lead particles.  Remember, lead poisoning is rare even though it’s everywhere. I handle lead on a regular basis and often have unavoidable cuts as a result of working with glass.  I get my heavy metal levels checked on a quarterly basis as a precaution due to my interactions with lead and I have never had a test result of concern.  Your interactions with a finished piece of stained glass containing lead that requires the occasional handling will be far, far less.  Go forward with confidence, your windows will thank you. 

WHAT IS A SHOP DROP?

A "shop drop" is a shop restock. Shop drops will have a set date and time when products will be uploaded to the online store.

HOW OFTEN IS THE STORE RESTOCKED? 

The goal is to load new product monthly, but many variables can impact a collection launch date. New glass will be added to the Refraction Lab store as collections are completed in the form of shop drops.  Shop drops will have a set release date and time for when the collection will be loaded and made available for purchase.  Information regarding the next shop drop can be found at the top of the “Shop” page. Stand alone products can also be added outside of a formal collection drop on an as completed basis. Subscribe to my newsletter and follow me on social media to stay in the know.

DO YOU OFFER COMMISSIONS OR CUSTOM WORK?

At this time commissions are closed.  Once I get into a rhythm with my new small business, I plan to open up a set number of custom orders per quarter.  All commissions will be reviewed and quoted prior to commitment to ensure that the design & pricing is a good fit for both of us.  It is important for me to set healthy boundaries and stay true to my artistic style, so for the time being focus will be put on my own designs.  Further details regarding custom order processes and policies will be provided once this service has been opened to the public.  Sign up for the newsletter to receive updates on shop changes. 

DO YOU OFFER STAINED GLASS LESSONS OR WORKSHOPS?

Running small workshops is not something I am able to accommodate at this time.  However, it is a long-term goal of mine to offer something like this in the future.  I do plan to offer a wide range of educational content through my social media accounts if you would like to follow along and learn the techniques that I use.  If you have questions on a process feel free to message me and I will provide advice as soon as time allows. 

WHAT STORES CARRY YOUR ARTWORK?

I’m the new kid on the block, so at this time no stores carry works created by me outside of the Refraction Lab website.  Want to be the first?  Please email information on your company and sales policies/splits to hello@shoprefractionlab.com to inquire about working together.

DO YOU SELL GIFT CARDS?

Gift cards will be listed on the shop page when available for purchase.

WHAT PAYMENT METHODS ARE ACCEPTED?

All major debit and credit cards, Apple Pay, and PayPal.

IS SALES TAX CHARGED?

By law I am required to assess sales tax on the pieces I manufacture and sell from Washington State, as I hold a physical nexus here.  Sales tax will be outlined upon checkout where applicable. 

I'M LOCAL, CAN I PICK UP MY ORDER?

All orders will be shipped at this time.  Once I have established a physical studio address, I will feel more comfortable offering pick up as an option. At this time I would prefer to not have strangers showing up to my home address. I like you, but I hope you understand the need for privacy here. One exception: If you personally know me, we can talk about this as an option. Shoot me a message with your order and we can set something up.